B19 LIMOGES: BEAUTY AND THE BEAST ALL IN ONE PLACE

The terrain changed from gently rolling fields to hilly, forested landscape as we headed south. The city of Limoges is known for its beautiful china that graces tables world wide but scarcely sixteen miles away stands a crumbling reminder of man’s inhumantity to man…a remnant of World War Two.

The event occurred on 10 June, 1944, just four days after the Allies successful invasion of Europe on the beaches of Normandy. The German army, in a panic to control the conquered French population, decided something dramatic was needed to keep the French from assisting the Allies.

The SS troops went in to the small town of Oradour sur Glane with the pretext of searching for hidden weapons. The villagers, knowing they didn’t have any, were compliant. The Germans rounded up all the men in the village, some 200, and placed them in five different garages. They then herded all the women children into the church. There were 400 in there.At a pre-determined time they opened fire on the men with machine guns at all five locations, methodically killing them all and then burning their bodies.

The women and children in the church were not spared. The SS troops set off poison chemical canisters in the church followed by hand grenades and machine gunning those that survived. They then torched the church causing it to fall in on the victims. The end result was that the bodies were so charred that they could not be identified.

They returned the next day to scoop up all the remains and buried them in mass graves so their awful deed could not be traced and set fire to the village, completely destroying it.

Fortunately, five men and a woman managed to escape and were the sole witnesses at the Nuremburg trials of Germans accused of crimes against humanity.

The French government determined that this atrocity should never be forgotten so the site of the original village has been preserved as it was on that long-ago June day in 1944. A new village was built only a half mile away but the residents are never far away from the one word that has been chosen to represent the monument. REMEMBER.

It was with sober thoughts that we went in search of our next place to spend the night. Our daughter, Chrise, used booking.com to locate many of our accommodations during this trip and she really uncovered a gem this time.

Château de la Chabroulie, just outside of Limoges, is one of those fairy-type chateaus situated in the countryside. It isn’t one of those musty, don’t sit on the furniture type of castles but a daily, living home for its occupants.

Benedicte and Philippe de Le Selle are the 10th generation to live in this chateau. They raised their children here and their grandchildren are now running up and down the staircase and riding their trikes in the driveway. After lugging suitcases up the grand stairs

You are greeted by a small sitting area where you can read or check your e-mail. While they have WiFi, just as in many cases, it doesn’t make it into your room. Something to do with the thickness of medieval walls.

You can, however, set up your iPad in the petite salon.

Adjacent is the Grand salon but we’re not sure whether guests have access or not. We spied kids toys in one corner of this room so it may be family private.

It is a working chateau however and Philippe has the soiled pants of a farmer to show for it. He said that he doesn’t mind running a chateau but he would rather be playing golf.

Our room was out of a storybook and immediately influenced Louise who began ordering me around and putting on royal airs. We had more than enough room for our never ending baggage; a sitting area and a completely functional desk. The large windows opened to scenes of cows grazing the landscape.

The bathroom was fashioned out of a conical tower and it was possible to perform your daily functions while looking out a large window but still with a sense of privacy.

A traditional French breakfast was served in the family area and the we had the pleasure of a long conversation with a Dutch couple who have traveled the world.
He is in charge of internet functions for Mercedes in Holland and we shared tips from the hobby of photography and the capabilities of Photoshop. I was really sorry when breakfast was over.

We had another of those wistful goodbyes. Hating to leave but needing to get on the road. Benedicte and Philippe were there to help us with the luggage and instructions on the best way to get out of town. The surprise of this trip, so far, is the people we have met. One great difference between 52 years ago and today is that we prefer being than seeing. It isn’t as important to see the sights as it is to enjoy the fellowship. (I dislike that word because it sounds so “churchy” but don’t have a better one. Supply another if you can.)

Once again, one night was too short. Would we stay here again? In a New York minute…but longer next time.

Louise & Ray