D10 – LEIPZIG – ON THE WAY BACK FROM RUIN

Thanks to the GPS, leaving Nidda was no problem. She got us to the closest autobahn and before we knew it, we were comfortably cruising at 110 MPH again. We recalled some of the problems we’d encountered with our GPS lady during our 2011 European trip. She had to recalculate so many times we named her, “Mademoiselle Recalculaire.” We felt this GPS needed a name as well and since we are in Germany we are calling her “Schatzi.” Any GI who served time in Europe in the late 20th Century might remember that word was loosely associated with any friendly German girl. However, our friend Alex Rudolph says it is derived from the word “Schatz” meaning “Treasure” and that certainly better fits our relationship.

It reminds me of an incident some 10 years ago when we were driving with Alex on the autobahn. The GPS voice was that of a male and I told him a woman’s voice was commonly used in the U.S. “That would never work in Germany,” he stated firmly. “No German man would ever take orders from a woman.” Apparently Women’s Lib had not yet gotten a foothold in Deutschland. When riding with Alex the other day I noticed his GPS voice was that of a woman. I commented on the change. “There is a good reason for that,” he said, “And it is not due to the election of Angela Merkle.” By now Louise was listening intently. “It has been proven that a woman’s voice, due to the sharpness of her tone, is more easily heard over the road noises of the automobile.” To make sure I clearly understood that he had not caved in, he said, “So, you see, it is a typical, well thought out, German solution to a practical problem.” I don’t think he has gone so far as to name his GPS though.

Schatzi got us to the Mercure Art hotel with no problem. Even engineered a parking spot right in front of the door. Mercure is a chain of hotels that have chosen a very modern design as one of their hallmarks.

Their interest in design is evident in the lobby with a mix of ultra-modern and overstuffed. Another statement is made with artwork and graphics throughout, including the rooms.

Room 225 was less than commodious but solved the problem in a clever way. The traditional closet, chest of drawers and headboard were replaced by a wall unit that covered all the bases. Note the absence of door pulls or knobs. They’re replaced by big curves in the doors that act as handles. Besides room artwork, there was a quote by Aristotle directly over the bed…unfortunately in German.

One of our main interests was a museum dedicated to the Stasi, the East German Republic secret police. We asked the desk clerk and she whipped out one of those city maps hotels give out so easily. “It’s just here,” she pointed. “Only a few minutes by foot or you can catch a streetcar for $2.50 each.” We are always easily fooled by distances on these maps, and chose a chance to save the $5 by hoofing it.

Forty-five steamy minutes later we stumbled upon the Stasi Museum building.  It was called “The Round Corner Building” because of the curved exterior. The interior was left in the exact condition of the day when the Stasi was disbanded in 1989. That means the Latrine Green, nicotine stained walls remain as was. Same for the floor tiles with discolored wax build-up along the baseboards where feet hardly ever walked.

Wiping the sweat from our foreheads we picked up the audio guided tour devices. It takes you from room to dreary room, mostly used for administration purposes. They now contain showcases of uniforms and paperwork.

One wall shows the location of every house, office, store and bar that was bugged or under surveillance in the Liepzig area.

The black dots look almost like a spreading mold.

Other cases displayed the various tools used by the Stasi for their dirty work. Each agent was given a makeup and wig kit, complete with dark sunglasses for immediate physical change.

Most of the equipment displayed is hopelessly out of date but state of the art in 1989, some 26 years ago. This camera was built into a suitcase or attache case. The lens is covered by a logo on the case and the shutter was tripped in the handle. Technicians developed a camera with a silent shutter for the agents.

Those unlucky enough to be detained in this building were kept in cells like this one. No outside contact was allowed so relatives had no idea what happened to their loved ones.

The suspects were allowed a few solitary minutes a day in an exercise court with no windows so they had no idea where in the building they were.

When the impending demise of the German Democratic Republic could no longer be ignored, the Stasi began destroying their incriminating paperwork in this type of machine. The papers were dumped in the top, shredded and mixed with a slurry that turned into lumps of cement. You can see them in the left corner. This method was too slow, so at the end, papers were torn in two, splashed with bleach or burned in the courtyard. Fortunately they couldn’t beat their clock so  the remaining papers are in the museum for all to see.

It was good to be back outside in the real world and to see the rebuilding progress of Leipzig.  A good example is the City Hall or Rat Haus on market day.

To get the taste out of our mouths we followed Evi and Michael Stadler’s recommendation and searched out the Auerbach Keller under a shopping area in Old Town.

The cellar was about to be filled in by the city when students asked for a chance to save it. Elbow grease and hard work have paid off and the room was almost filled on the Monday night we were there. Pot roast and beer. What a meal.

The next morning we got an example of what a Mercure Art $17 breakfast looks like. I must admit, there were plenty of food choices including fresh fruit, scrambled eggs, sausages, etc. Still, the price was kind of stiff.

We couldn’t leave Leipzig without visiting the home church of Johann Sebastian Bach. It was easy to find. Just follow the tour buses.

I know, I know. You’ve almost had enough of church interiors but this one is different.

Buried in the middle of the path to the altar is J.S. Bach himself…or so they think. He was not in great appreciation when he died and was buried in a common graveyard. When his music was rediscovered, his parts (they think) were exhumed and he was reburied in this place of high honor. That might not be true either. Leipzig was mostly destroyed in WWII so the altar is from another church and the rest pieced together. I’m sure Bach doesn’t give a damn.

With the mystery still unresolved, we took our place at the base of his statue outside the church for the obligatory photo. We tried to hum a Bach tune or two but couldn’t remember a single one.

We’re on our way to Berlin. Stay with us.

Louise and Ray