D18: THAT’S A WRAP FOR PRAGUE

We awoke early because this is to be our last day in Prague. We are staying at the U Pava Hotel in the new city. That means it only goes back to the 1600’s rather than earlier. This hotel is not a Rick Steve suggestion but one given to us by our friends, the Youngs and the Crofoots.  Don’t know what they did to it but it is under reconstruction today.

They all stayed here in the past so it came highly recommended…especially room 203 with it’s preferred view. Unfortunately that room was booked early but management said they’d do their best to offer something similar.

We must admit we were a bit disappointed when we entered the room. It was in what we might call the garret…possibly for the servants. The walls were slanted and it was necessary to walk in an articulated manner to keep from bumping your head.

In an upper corner was a hand-painted figure of an angel standing watch over us while we slept. The front desk had no explanation or back story for the angel over our bed. Can’t say we slept any better because we were being watched.

We were curious about the view because there was only one small dormer window far in the corner of the room. I almost laughed until Louise said, “Come here and take a look.”

The view was of the impressive fortress that overlooks Prague. It contains a church and a good sized village up there and immediately became a priority to visit. We would ask about it at the front desk.

Breakfast came first. The fare is not that different from most hotels of this size and we’ve become accustomed to eating a large breakfast, skipping lunch while touring and wait to have an early dinner.

A standard offering includes yogurt, breakfast breads (including croissants) jams, jellies, fruits of all sorts, juices, breakfast cereals, a selection of luncheon meats, assortment of cheeses and boiled eggs. Teas of all sorts are offered and coffee prepared by a machine…six or seven choices were average. It was enough to hold us until evening.

Against the advice of the desk clerk, we decided to drive the Audi up the hill…especially after she said, Oh, it’s only a short walk straight uphill. You’ll be there in no time.” Once there we found very little in the way of crowds. Perhaps they were still walking up the hill.

The smarter ones hired cars like this one. Don’t try to figure out the manufacturer. There are a lot of them and they appear to be custom made for just the purpose of porting tourists all over Prague.

Contrary to what I was led to believe, there was plenty of open parking at the fortress. Large “P” signs, meaning parking, are everywhere but the fine print usually means that it is restricted in some way. I was in the mood for a beer and pulled into an empty spot in front of a restaurant. As I got out of the car a booming voice said, “No parking allowed without a permit. You will be ticketed and towed.” I replied, “All I want is a beer and a snack.” He said, “I will let you know when they’re coming. Please sit down,” and ushered us to his outdoor cafe.

For the next hour I watched this man deftly work the passing crowd of tourists.  As they’d walk by he’d greet them in their own languages. English, Spanish, French, German, Italian and even Chinese. I asked him how he knew which language to speak. “Mostly their clothes,” he said.

“Americans are the easiest because most wear white shoes.” Looking down at my tan desert boots, I wondered how he’d picked me so easily. “You were a little tougher,” he said. No white shoes

but you’re driving a new German car with license plates issued by the factory in Ingolstadt. They are temporary and due to expire on the 6th of October which means you’re a tourist. The model of your car with a 3 liter engine is not sold in Europe which means it will go to the States.” He went on, “Besides, you got out carrying an empty coffee cup. No European man would be caught dead drinking coffee while driving his car.” I must admit, you must admire a man who knows his market that well.

To celebrate our last evening in Prague we decided to splurge and ate at the Kampa Park restaurant, right on the banks of the Voltava River near the Charles Bridge. Friend Tim Young said he and his father had eaten there several times while on business in Prague.

The food was good and well presented but It was also pricey. It was only then I remembered that Tim and his Dad were there on their expense accounts. All in all, a good experience though.

After dinner we walked along the Charles bridge with hundreds of others. Saw this statue in an inconspicuous spot just off the bridge. Guess his job is to stand there and spear the cruise boats that ply the river.

A popular thing to do for almost everyone was to rub this figure mounted on the bridge railing. My best guess is it has something to do with good luck.

Women seemed the most attracted to this action. In fact, never saw a man do it.

The early evening hours seem to be the best time to photograph statues on the bridge in silhouette. Have no idea who these figures are but they look great, don’t they?

Hollywood’s magic hour of twilight arrived while our camera was aimed at the fortress and it was ready for its closeup.

To appeal to the shutterbugs who just won’t quit because it’s dark, Prague turns the lights on their famous Charles Bridge and you could hear the camera shutters click away like crickets.

It was time to call a wrap to our visit to Prague. We went back to the U Pava (Czech for peacock) and took one long last view of the fortress at night from our “view” room. Once again, Prague was generous with illumination and gave us this wonderful sight.

Tomorrow we leave for Cesky-Krumlov. Still in Czechoslovakia but almost in Germany.

Louise and Ray